Monthly Archives: December 2010

Board of the Month

 

The board of the month is where an idea on a new shape goes to live.  Starting in January I will be featuring a shape that is not widely offered.  It's a one off that will be available for purchase. No substitutions no changes.

 

Blue Magazine

 

Sir Kyle Lightner shot Greg and Chris for an upcoming issue of Blue Magazine.  At this current moment Chris and Greg were discussing global issues such as matters pertaining to chicks.  Thanks for the photo Kyle.

 

Well Done Dane

 

Just short of ordering a pizza to the podium Dane's acceptance speach was just as much inarticulate as it was awesome.

 

 

HOW TO HANDLE A HOLD DOWN

 

SURFER MAGAZINE recently did an article on how Greg prepares for hold downs. In fact there exact words were "big wave hellman"

Big-wave hellman Greg Long has gained distinction as one of the hardest charging surfers on the planet. But glory in this realm involves flirtation with monumental risk. For our “Ask A Local” column in the January 2011 issue of SURFER, we asked and the 2009 Eddie Aikau event champion the best ways to physically and mentally withstand long bouts underwater. While we used part of his response in print (on newsstands December 1, 2010) his explanation was so thorough we thought we’d share it in full here.

“When I started riding big waves I read an article that said to survive a massive wipeout, your mental preparedness will be just as important as your physical conditioning. After over a decade of pushing myself in challenging conditions, I can tell you that this statement is absolutely true.

full article on SURFERMAG.COM

1953 Triumph 6T

 

This is my 53 Triumph Thunderbird customized with a "dirt  track" theme. It was built by one of the White Knights Neil Fenton aka Mister Tinker in Brooklyn , NY.  (mistertinker.com)

He is a trip and does amazing work. The bike finally just got finished and I was able to give a test ride in Brooklyn a few weeks back. This thing flies with a 750cc and it weighs less than 300 lbs!

C-Bucket

 

A kustom for Modest Mouse front man Isaac Brock.

 

 

 


6 Channel C-Hawk 5’9 19 1/8 x 2 5/16

 

I have been getting a lot of great feed back on this model from the majority of my pro clientele and novices alike. Brad Gerlach used this board on a boat trip in Indo and it was his go to board on the trip. This is by no means a small wave grovel design. It has similar characteristics to a keel fin fish but can surf in a much tighter radius. The fins are similar to an upright MR template but much less volume and pushed further back towards the tail. It does not have that "wiggly" twin fin feel. You can surf this board with confidence when the wave has some push. If you were a fish afficianado during the past decade of its return than this is the next step for you.